Nestled between the mountains and the sea, Kalk Bay is only a 30-minute drive from Cape Town’s centre, yet it seems a world away from the hustle and bustle of the city.  

If the cobbled streets, cosy coffee shops and antique stores aren’t enough, then the charismatic snoek fisherman, who have plied their trade through the harbour for centuries, are certainly enough to lure the intrepid traveller into this quaint harbour village. The place is a creative maverick’s paradise. Art stores, pottery studios and bric-a-brac shops also line the narrow roads, and secret alleys running up the mountainsides take you on adventures into dusty bookstores and the endless chronicles of the early traders and fisher folk.

It’s hard not to delve into a bit of history to see where the Kalk Bay name originated. One of the earliest recorded visitors was Simon van der Stel. He stopped over in Kalk Bay en route to Simon’s Town, and discovered an ideal fishing spot with which to supply his men stationed at the castle. The fishing flourished, and as an offshoot of this, the families who inhabited the area were encouraged by the Dutch to establish lime kilns at Kalk Bay. It was from these lime (kalk) kilns that Kalk Bay obtained its name.

As a cultural experience for travellers, it has blossomed in recent years.

“It is still one of the smallest and quietest harbours in the country,” says long-time harbour master Pat Stacey. “A few years ago we had about 38 wooden fishing vessels that regularly docked here. There are fewer big hauls of fish nowadays, but the fishermen and boats have remained.”

Apparently, there is still a loyal market for fish, especially the commonly sought after snoek – a long, bright, silver fish armed with a formidable set of razor-sharp teeth. It’s caught using a hand line method passed down through generations of fishing lore.

“Witnessing this is a cultural experience,” says Alan Wellburn, who runs traditional snoek charters from Kalk Bay. “You can spot the experienced fishermen easily – the old hands of the sea. Sturdy fishing gut is used with a large snoek hook and a half-pilchard to catch fish, and there are other skills peculiar to snoek fishermen, like the traditional method of hauling the fish into the boat.”

Snoek are vicious predators and put up a strong fight. Their teeth are covered in an anti-coagulant that will cause a bite mark to bleed for some time. Because of this, the fish needs to be dispatched as soon as possible to prevent it thrashing about and inflicting harm. The traditional method is to tuck the body of the fish under an arm and snap its neck.

The flesh is tender and rich in flavour. It is deep-fried, smoked, dried, or prepared by the local community in the traditional Cape Malay style – the options are endless. For about R35 (you can haggle it down if you’re up for the challenge) you’ll get a shiny, fresh snoek cleaned, prepared, and wrapped in newspaper.

The life of a Kalk Bay fisherman has always been a spartan one. In days gone by, the men would have to rise at two in the morning, row or sail out to sea, fish until the afternoon, and then haul their boats up the beach slope to avoid storm damage. Cold weather and rough seas only increased the hazards.

These days, that lifestyle is still prevalent. Skippers and crew typically set off before dawn, day in day out. It’s hard work with sometimes little reward. But working conditions are vastly improved and the romantic notion of setting out to sea remains.

“I was born in Kalk Bay 36 years ago into a family of fishermen, so the sea will always be in my blood,” explains Alistair Boltman, skipper of the aptly named Alistair. “We get here in the early hours of the morning, and depending on the weather, will head out almost every day. It’s a tough but rich existence.”

“I feel calm out at sea,” one of Alistair's crew says with a quiet serenity. “No one can disturb you. The hardships and hassles of society are a distant memory. The sea is my comfort zone – at least most of the time!”

When it’s not, the icy Atlantic waters and violent storms and the occasional 'big creature' is a reminder that life on land isn’t so bad. “I’ve seen some weird and wonderful sea creatures,” Achmat, the crewmember, adds, “But plenty scary ones, too, like huge sharks (quite often the feared Great Whites, which are common in False Bay) and giant tjokka (squid), which make you start thinking…”

Most of the fishing community are Cape Coloureds and renowned for their quick-witted humour. They can be heard at their best among the crowds as the community bids for the day's catch at the end of the day. Equally as colourful – and equally established in Kalk Bay folklore – are the fishermen’s boats.